OLD PHUKET - THE TIN LEGACY

Old Phuket Town dates back to the tin mining days of a century ago, when Chinese immigrants sought to make their fortunes from this precious ore.

For millions of international visitors, Phuket is an island paradise, wrapping sun, sand and sea into a glamorous package that attracts them back again and again. However, 150 or so years ago, the island attracted visitors of a different sort – Chinese migrants seeking to make their fortunes from Phuket’s lucrative tin mining industry.

Many were from the Fujian area of China, bringing with them their Hokkien culture and language; others were from nearby Penang, as well as traders from Malaysia, India and the Straits Settlements. Together they forged Phuket Town, channelling tin, goods and money through the port in Tongkah Bay in ever growing amounts.

Some gained mine concessions, making fortunes and establishing family dynasties on the island. They built huge mansions, similar to the colonial properties in Penang, and wore European clothes. Others set up trading companies and shops-cum-homes along Thalang Road, Old Phuket’s main commercial centre, and adjacent streets.

Today, tin mining has virtually ceased due to low tin prices and high extraction costs. In its place, the descendents of the tin pioneers have, like alchemists of old, transmuted cheap metal into gold – tourism gold. Degraded tin mines have been turned into lucrative attractions – the luxury resorts of Phuket Laguna, Blue Canyon Golf Club, Phuket Country Club and Phuket Boat Lagoon have all been built on top of mined-out land.

And the shophouses and mansions that line the roads of Old Phuket Town have become a fascinating tableau of discovery for travellers wanting to learn more about the heritage and culture of the early tin pioneers.

Preservation PushLocal interest in the heritage of the old town came to a head in 1992, when the government passed the new Environment Act that designated Old Phuket as a conservation area, covering 8 roads – Dibuk, Thalang, Phangnga, Phuket, Rasada, Ranong, Yaowarat, and Krabi – and two lanes – Soi Romanee and Soi Soon Uthit. The act set limits on building work, and encouraged restoration and local participation in promoting this heritage area.
Good cooperation between the local government and residents helped launch the Old Phuket Town Festival in 1998, highlighting the renaissance of Thalang Road and showcasing the baba lifestyle (see: Who are the Babasω), costume, food and architecture. The growth of this annual festival plus the recent move of the Tourism Authority of Thailand Region 4 into brand new offices on Thalang Road, inspiringly designed as a Sino-Colonial mansion in a bright orange coat, gives the TAT new ammunition to encourage tourists to discover the cultural allure of Old Phuket.